Vaping – Russain 91% RBA Clone SS Mesh Build

Guess this got popular enough of a topic and seems that my ECF thread got archives, so I cannot edit it anymore to add summaries of little details, so I’ll go ahead and just post everything here:


BIG, BIG note – I have a clone R91% (said to be a “2014 model” whatever that means, off of eBay), thus I have no idea what similar clones on the market or original units (Kayfuns, other Russians) share this one’s main deck, but as you can see above, mine has VERY roomy juice channels. They’re about 2mm deep on the bottom and about 1-1.5mm deep inside the chimney. I’ve seen some picture where the channels are shallow, but that should NOT prevent you from pulling this build off.

I highly recommend a VV/VW battery with built-in ohm check feature to make everything much, much faster.

And so, you simply measure out enough mesh to,

– be long enough to go from bottom of the chimney/chimney’s channels all the way over and across the coil area and into the other channel.

– be thick enough to fill your channel tightly, unless your channel is very shallow, in which case you can just run it towards it and not inside.

Prepare it however you like, roll, test fit. If all of that goes well, find a drill bit the closest size to your rolled mesh and wrap a coil of your choice around it. I did 30 gauge nichrome to 1.4 ohms.

Set the coil, lift it above the air hole, etc. Pull the mesh through the coil, try to have it fit snug but not too tight nor too loose.

Pinch and bend enough of the SS mesh roll to reach desired area around one juice channel, then do the same on the other side. Trim excess with scissors.

Screw the chimney bit on and start testing ohms and doing quick test firing (preferable on the lowest wattage possible) to find the hot spots. Adjust the coil around using anything fine and pointy until you work all the hot spots out and it glows evenly EVERY time you fire it. Don’t be afraid to shift the mesh a bit to help kink out the hot spots.

Put enough juice to saturate the wick and wet fire it to see how much the ohms drop when its wet. You’re looking for .1-.2 drop tops. (Note that this build does not like to be part-dry, so that could be the sole source of any discrepancies, but it never hurts to make sure.) If its more, carefully burn it until its dry and test for dry hot spots again.

If all is well and consistent, build everything back up and do a few final dry burns to make sure it still works when assembled. Looking into the chimney will let you see if the coil heats up fine + checking the ohms.

Fill, set your wattage, and enjoy. I like mine best at 6-8 with PG and 7-9 on VG.

Final note – check your ohms periodically to make sure it’s all running as it should. If it suddenly start to drop .3 or more ohms, I would suggest draining, and checking the coil even if it still tastes about the same. No reason to let a good coil pop from a hot spot when you run low and don’t notice it.

Discuss here:


Fogger V2 RBA Review


With Pyrex RSST and my Smok eGo lost, I figured to try a Kayfun style RBA for its efficiency, general lack of leaks and lack of wasteful condensation.




Nice amount of extras including a fill screw screwdriver, and even 2 spare wicks and wires- 1 SS mesh and 1 Silica. The wire I’ll guess is nichrome 30-32g.



Interestingly enough it comes pre-built, albeit rather poorly given the design and its common out-of-box flaws like relatively poor wicking and/or leaking into and through the air hole.


It does light up nicely though.

So, my guess is that my initial fill caused a pressure-leak and from there I decided to go ahead and mini-overhaul and build it all up. As per suggestions, I added one small silicone O-ring to the bottom contact screw to prevent it ever touching the sides of its well and shorting everything out. Next came drying it all up and looking at the air control assembly, which was indeed quite a pain to unscrew initially. Had to use 2 lockable gripped pliers to even make it budge, but after the initial struggle everything came apart nicely.

Everything on the inside looked fine to me, so I went ahead and jammed another small O-ring around the positive post to make sure it would never touch the well. This should also help prevent any juice from leaking too far into the post’s well. After all that, bottom deck reassembly and testing to make sure the air holes didn’t get blocked while twisting it back together, I went ahead and built the coil.

Here I used my 2.5mm Ekowool with cotton center threads and 6 wraps of 28g nichrome that yielded 1.3 ohm resistance post-to-post.


And it produced pretty decent vapor.


Here I juiced the wick, tucked it inside as best I could and left a tiny little nubs in the bottoms of the juice slots and screwed the chimney on without the provided silicone O-ring. Put the tank on, opened the fill screw, and filled with syringe tip juice bottle using this method: fill with the air control completely closed down and holding the chimney hole with a finger, then screw the fill screw back on, flip everything upside down, open up the air control, and finally let go of the chimney opening.

No leaking now, and pretty solid juice flow thanks to the crazy ekowool.

Now it vapes very nicely and I suppose only time will tell whether or not it will leak again.

Fogger is pretty fun given that its small chamber wastes nothing and delivers pure flavor right off the bat. I can’t think of too much condensation building up and simply wasting away given its design, unlike the RSST.

Juice I got along with this guy is Jasmin Aloha e Juice from Eciggity, and it is very smooth and light. Tastes just like jasmine and that does the trick for me.

Last few words- I would recommend Kayfun style/Fogger RBAs to experienced builders only since making coils for this thing is a very delicate and precise process. You definitely get your effort’s worth, but its nowhere near as easy as Genesis styles like RSST.


Post day-and-a-half of vaping this thing, I can safely say that it IS very, very solid. After a new tank refill it worked just the same and didn’t even attempt to leak. So far, very solid as I have anticipated it to be.

Another thing I’d like to add is that from looking at the Kayfun Lite/Russian 91% designs and concepts, I prefer this more simple wicking method.

Smok Tech Pyrex Glass Tank RSST Review

Fresh from c2cvaping, the Pyrex glass tank RSST:


Packaging is similar to that of Magneto and other higher end mods than the simple old RSST’s simple little box.


Packaging inside matches the new premium looks well.


Usual extras with new tank seal for the top deck connection included. Also 2 washers for the center pin.


Broken down. The bottom of the tank is now coated with silicone-feeling, rubbery material and has 4 machined posts to center the glass tank. The center column is coated in that same rubbery material to help seal the tank. Top of the glass tank has a silicone ring to seal it into the top deck’s new grove. Overall, very nicely upgraded albeit making simply upgrading to a new tank impossible from the old units.


Side by side comparison with the old RSST (right). The new design has a little machined decorative gap where the chamber cap meets the top deck and looks much better than the old, lets-make-it-look-flush-with-a-crease RSST.


And having clear glass simply looks gorgeous compared to the old milky, plastic tank.

All in all, pretty nice upgrade, but hardly essential or absolutely necessary.

And a bonus macro “sweat” shot:


Magneto Mechanical Mod Clone (Fasttech)

Fiiiiiiiiiinally got this thing from SlowTech, and so far so good. This thing runs on 18xxx size batteries and has a screw-in/out extension tube to fit the different sizes. I ordered a 18500 and it fits nice and flush when the tube is extended almost all the way out.

Whole mod is heavy as hell, but I like its benefits- run any coil you want, fire as long as you please, and enjoy the fancy magnetic firing button at the bottom.



Next to Smok eG0



With the top piece off, battery in


Top and bottom piece off



Very simple, indeed solely mechanical since battery’s safety board is the only thing electronic here. The very bottom ring above the button does screw out to lock the button in for travels, although the magnets aren’t that weak to cause accidental fire. In fact, you have to REALLY push the button in for it to engage.

I’m still debating whether to re-coil/shorten my coil in the RSST to test this thing’s limits or to leave it be to use eG0 as backup/passthrough whenever this 1100mAh monster gives out.

Smoktech RSST RBA

So after doing some math on upkeep of the standard clearomizers and my love for customization and tweaking, I figured to go ahead and dabble into ReBuildable Atomizer realm. Smoktech RSST looked like the most basic, solid, affordable and pretty good looking of all the others on the market.

RSST (2)

Package is simple and appealing. Kit comes with the RSST; very solid, stainless steel 510 drip tip; spare chamber O-rings; extra spring and a shim for the positive center post; and 2 extra tank plugs.

Doing my research on this guy prior to purchase, I read that the delrin insert for the center post was prone to juice leaking all the way down it and into the battery. One solution was getting silicone inserts designed for a different RBA that fit this one perfectly and remedied the issue, and one place to get them at was KidneyPuncher. Since they also had RSST and wires and wicks, I went ahead and ordered everything from there. I went with silver plated center post for better conductivity.

RSST (4)

RSST (5)

Going with Stainless Steel mesh and too-high of a gauge of Kanthal wire was a mistake on my part, and the whole thing did not work all too well on the eGo battery (and yes, I went ahead and ordered a mod battery to try that out, but my preference is still the USB eGo for its convenience) due to having too much resistance on effective number of coils. SS mesh was also quite a pain to coil around and avoid hot spots.

NOTE- wicking using Ekowool (filled with nylon or cotton) can be easily done by wrapping the coil around a spare center pin or any 2mm diameter nail, then licking the wick ends after you cut it to prevent fraying and making it very easy to threat through the wrapped coil.

So next venture was some Ekowool wick and Nichrome standard and flat ribbon wire along with a 18500 battery and a charger for the mod handle that’s on its way from Fasttech.

RSST (15)

This combo worked out quite well with a 5/4 wrap, giving me ~2.2 ohm resistance and plenty of surface area coverage for a pretty decent burn.

RSST (18)

And in the end, this is the rig until the mod battery holder arrives:

RSST (14)

So my thoughts on the RSST and RBAs in general?

They indeed give a very, very clean and potent burn- my 35mg VS Banana juice is extremely, unbearably harsh coming from RSST than it even was on 510-T, RCT, or DCT. I can safely dilute it 50-60% with plain PG liquid and get the same throat hit and taste. So RBAs are very, very efficient.

They’re, to me, very fun to set up and tweak. Sometimes a pain, but I’m sure as I rebuild it more I’ll get better at it. Combinations of coils possible using only 1 wire are impressive- # of coils, their spacing, standard wrap-around-the-wick or micro-coil ribbons… and the best part is that every type burns noticeably different!

The build is very, very pleasing to both the hand and the eye. That also means durability is simply off the charts.

Maintenance is extremely cheap. Where standard clearomizers and tanks usually carry ~ $2 tag per replacement atomizer piece that lasts about 3 weeks of use, a RBA wick and wire combo can run as low as $7.50 and would be enough to do 10+ rebuilds.

A voltometer/resistance meter is a must to own, but not a terribly expensive device.

If you have steady hands and a passion for tinkering and customizing, I’d highly recommend getting an RBA.

Smoktech DCT

Got a bottom-fed, cartomizer style dual coil tank to try out this whole vaping direction, and while a completely different feel from wick-fed tanks, I gotta say that I like this a little bit better on the go.



The DCT sports replaceable single or dual coil atomizer barrel that slide inside a 3.5 or a 5ml tanks and use standard 510 drip tips. While the whole rig is pretty much held together via silicone O rings, it surprisingly stays intact quite well.

filling the tank, especially 3.5ml, can be a little bit delicate since you have to avoid dripping into the metal barrel. With some care, it’s not too bad to get these to 75% full and that can last (me) 2 days if not a bit more (with the 3.5ml tank).

The burning of the dual coil produces far thinner and lighter taste, thus I can tug on it much longer than on my RCT. The real advantage is that the juice hole is at the very bottom of the tank, so DCT will not run dry until all of the juice is used up unlike the RCT whose wicks start having trouble routing the juice when the tank gets to 15-10% full. Avoiding dry hits is easier with these as well- a couple deep, blank pulls will get enough juice into the atomizer and it’s ready to go again and again.

Overall, nice system that is still affordable and rebuildable.

Smoktech RCT – Air Hole Patch

So I noticed that RCT tank has the same air hole down at the bottom of the battery connector like most other 510 tanks and carts for auto battery’s sake. Now that I’m on the eGo, this serves little to no purpose for me, but it does leak a tiny bit. Though this leak doesn’t interfere with the current passing through, it does corrode the threads of the tank’s connector and just annoys me enough to try and plug it.

And I did so via a small circle of aluminum tape.


This displaced the 2 little air holes a tiny bit and blocked off the main one, so the draw is a bit harder, but it seems to conduct better without that drop of liquid being in between contacts and there’s definitely no more corrosion going on.

Little Big Revamp – Smoktech RCT and Joye Ego

So I’ve been neglecting my poor little e-cig kit for a while, and thus decided to do a little overhaul.

Through some net search I came across MadVapes and saw a very attractive deal in their sales section:


Smoktech Replaceable Coil Tank (RCT) for only $4.29. It could use the Joye 510 batteries I had a few of already, so I figured it would be worth a try. Once I got it (the yellow one), I loved how fresh and powerful it was compared to the old little 510T atomizer, so I figured a proper overall upgrade was in order (as well as a spare RCT just in case- purple one).

I went back to Madvapes and ordered a spare tank, some RY4 liquid for a change (VS Banana has been getting old, but when you have ~60/120ml left, you’re just not as inclined to buy any liquid at all), and the real star of the show- Joye eGo 900mAh battery with a usb pass-through mod by Smoktech.


Tank can hold 5ml of liquid!

Before I drown this with words, here are some more shots of this thing plus comparisons with 510T:



*On the vaping note, it seems that you have to fill this tank at least half way to properly submerge the wicks to avoid getting dry pulls. I’ve been playing with 1/5-1/4th full and longer draws were ending a bit dry.

So why eGo battery despite owning 3 510XL ones? Well, predominantly for the USB pass through feature that lets you charge via mini-b cable AND use it while charging. Battery capacity is nice to have as well, since my skinnies are 280mAh for manual and 340mAh for one automatic, so the new 900 is like the 3 combined. Ability to use USB port eliminates having to carry a special and slow proprietary charger.


Lastly, I believe my eGo does not have an automatic cut-off per continuous use like some do or I simply couldn’t hit my liquid for that long since it is very harsh, but that’s the way I like it!

Lastly I’d like to cover how nice the RCT’s build quality is. It is fully rebuildable as you can see in the very first image, but that’s not all. The end caps screw into aluminum thread instead of inside or outside the polycarbonate tank, so opening and closing it will have little to no wear and tear. Then, every part that can be removed has a silicone O-ring to properly seal it and keep the liquid from leaking out. Very nice touch!


Lastly here’s a lil shot of the coil:


All in all, very happy with this purchase and the fact that whenever (if ever, haha) it burns out, I can simply replace the whick-and-coil piece and not the whole thing. The tank size could’ve been a bit smaller IMO, but beggars aren’t choosers. The over-sized tank might possibly protect the battery button from being pressed when carrying this thing in pants pockets.